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Incubator Q&A

Welcome to the staging ground for new communities! Each proposal has a description in the "Descriptions" category and a body of questions and answers in "Incubator Q&A". You can ask questions (and get answers, we hope!) right away, and start new proposals.

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Incubator Q&A How can I test a monopole timer switch?

Key information is in the installation manual. Unfortunately, as is often the case, Lutron doesn't have easy-to-find installation manuals on their own web site. Fortunately, Home Depot does. This ...

posted 1y ago by manassehkatz‭

Answer
#1: Initial revision by user avatar manassehkatz‭ · 2023-09-27T17:34:49Z (about 1 year ago)
Key information is in the [installation manual](https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/7e/7e25648f-f032-4edb-aa6a-d4811379a744.pdf). Unfortunately, as is often the case, Lutron doesn't have easy-to-find installation manuals on their own web site. Fortunately, Home Depot does.

This is a "leak current through switched hot to power itself" timer. The first clue is that it only works with fans (up to 3A) or **incandescent and halogen** lights (up to 5A). It won't work well, if at all, with fluorescent or LED lights because it leaks a bit of current through the switched hot wire to power itself.

Because of this design, you can only properly test functionality when connected to a functioning fan or an incandescent or halogen light fixture. Checking with a multimeter won't get you anywhere.

I would recommend replacing with a different type of switch. Options:

* A mechanical timer. That is actually quite common. The only catch is that they often make some sort of humming or ticking sound. But they work with any type of wiring because they don't use 120V electricity to power themselves.
* A neutral-required electronic timer. That is identified by (a) requiring neutral in the instructions (usually quite clearly, because they want to avoid returns) and (b) LED compatibility. If you put in a combination fan/light then you'll want the LED compatibility. But even if you put in a simple fan, this is a more reliable setup. **But it requires the correct neutral in the switch box.** I say "correct neutral" because if the same switch box has a neutral in it but for a different circuit then you can't use it to power a switch - mixing up neutrals between circuits can cause all sorts of serious problems *and* doesn't work with GFCI.
* A humidity sensor. This has the same issues - neutral required is best, which means only if you have a neutral. Advantage: automatically turns on (many have manual operation as well) so if you have people who don't remember to turn on the fan after a shower, this solves the problem.